Pithy bikes frame jig

Bicycles and equipment used in competition across the different disciplines are at the forefront of the latest technology. The rules governing the use of equipment aim to ensure both the safety of riders and the fairness of competition while at the same time making the most of the advantages that technological evolution can bring to cycling.

Protocol for the construction of measuring jig for time trial bicycles. Spanish version. Frames and forks approval All the information concerning the approval procedure for frames and forks is available in the following document. Approval protocol for frames and forks. Below are the documents necessary to ensure that the approval procedure runs smoothly as defined in the Protocol.

Application form for the submission of frames and forks The FAQ document answers the most common questions regarding the approval. List of Approved Models of Frames and Forks. Wheels approval since Approval protocol for wheels.

Wheels approval application form. Letter from the manufacturer - Confirmation of successful test. List of approved wheels. Wheels approval - Non-standard wheels in conformity with Article 1. Prototype Equipment Approval Procedure Application form for submission of a prototype equipment. Telemetry Approval Procedure Telemetry Application form. Misceallenous UCI List riders 1. The link below presents the 3D measuring device from Hexagon Metrology used to allow the dimensional compliance of the frames and forks.

Bike Measurement Station. Technological fraud Test Report from Microbac Laboratories. Toggle menu navigation.Sep 10, You must login to Pinkbike.

Don't have an account? Sign up. My first venture into carbon fibre: Down tube: Columbus Gara 35x0. I then fine tune these numbers round up or down and design the full bike with all the details included.

3 Changes I Would Make To My Bicycle Frame Jig

I find working to sagged numbers helps me get an idea of how the bike will be once I am riding it. Head angle: I draw out the tube junctions and also how they will fit into my jigs. That gives me quick and easy references while I am building. The two spacers in the lower right image center the seat tube on the bottom bracket shell.

Tack welds position the tubes so you can weld outside of the jig. Keep checking the alignment and weld in small segments. To ensure that the miters on each end are aligned, I clamp a tube block in the center of the tube lower left and check that with a level before making each cut.

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Jig set up with front triangle and dropouts ready for the stays. More pieces means there's a lot more to go wrong when assembling the rear triangle. Good fits assure proper alignment. The plan from the beginning was to keep this build as low cost as possible, so if I didn't already have the part, I searched through all the bargain buckets online for the best deals or went down the route of an unbranded alternative from ebay, such as the Satori dropper post, which seems to be a rebranded RSP with slight changes.

This is because I don't use all ten gears on my other bikes - but mainly, it's a hell of a lot cheaper. View this post on Instagram. If you would like to keep up to date on this frame as well, as my other projects, then give me a follow on instagram. First Ride: Evil Wreckoning views. Behind the Numbers: 5 Trail Bikes Compared views. Video: Specialized Epic vs.We all have an innate urge to build stuff. I googled around, found a TIG-welding class, and immediately put down a deposit.

The teacher used a particularly challenging way of mitering tubes—cutting them, fitting them together—involving a bench grinder, instead of the classic hacksaw and file. It was faster, sure, but mostly because he ended up doing half of it for me because it was so damn hard. So it goes. Next up, time to practice TIG welding. The most delicate kind of welding, TIG uses a sharpened rod of tungsten to send a spark to the metal, melting it along with the filler rod that you hold in your other hand.

Practicing was punctuated by erratic noises and the distinct terror stemming from my abstract understanding of electricity and shock-avoidance.

It was soon evident that after only a few hours of practice, I would be utterly incapable of welding my own bike. Obviously this was a crushing disappointment, and I wished I had learned basic TIG previously or had chosen a lugged brazing class instead.

It was fascinating to view fabrication up close, participate when I could, and palpate the decision-making process. The final product came out well—despite my involvement—and when the cyclocross bike came out of the powder-coating oven, my disappointment had receded a little. The joy came back as I started building it up with a Pro cockpitsaddleand seatpost as well as a full Shimano Ultegra groupsetwhich dollar for dollar is the best out there.

It's hard to believe that smoother shifting performance exists one tier up. The experience of building a bike is humbling, putting whatever bike skills you have into perspective by showing you a dictionary of the things you don't know.

If you're interested in frame building, I do whole-heartedly recommend taking a class, if not only for improving your understanding of these machines. Just make sure you take a class with the traditional lugged construction method so you can do build it all yourself from scratch—which I later did. Well, not quite from scratch. The next step for me is going to the mine, yanking out the ore, and mastering the art of smelting.

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pithy bikes frame jig

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All Listings filter applied. Buy It Now. Condition see all Condition. New 6. Please provide a valid price range. Item Location see all Item Location. Default filter applied. Canada Only. North America. Show only see all Show only. Free Returns. Free shipping. Completed listings.The jig set up for building the bike above. It rests on a bracket I brazed to a vertical pole that goes floor to ceiling in my garage.

I have a Park repair stand clamp on the other side. Tubes loaded ready to tack. I found some square tube aluminum extrusion at my local scrap metal yard that is pretty heavy duty and very straight. I bolted four pieces together three bolts per joint to make the "backbone" for this, then bolted two long horizontal pieces of "C" channel to bolt other pieces of channel to.

Setting this jig up isn't easy like pro jigs, but my intent was just to build one model of bike repeatedly with it. Don't laugh, this works great for holding the bottom bracket shell. I touched up the front and back surfaces, and the bottom surface of the cap on my belt sander, and the shell doesn't wiggle at all. I barely needed to do any alignment after tacking too. Tubes and bottom bracket shell loaded and ready to tack. I made a whole slew of these "V" blocks made from angle iron and steel plate.

They're fast and easy to make.

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Just lay two 2" pieces of angle on your bench near each other with the vertex up, put the square plate steel on top and lay a firebrick on top that spans the two, and the flat plates are guaranteed to be exact 45 degree angles to the angle iron sides. Then drill a hole for a bolt so you can bolt it to the channel.

Shim as needed. A tube clamped against a "V" block. My rear dropout spacer. It's a bit flimsy, but it worked. If I had a lathe My adjustable dropouts secured by the spacer.

I searched through all kinds of piles of stuff to find cones, then I saw cocktail jiggers in a thrift store. You have to be careful when drilling or brazing them as they're pretty thin walled. Some are better than others. The head tube secured with the jigger cones. The brackets that hold the jiggers have plate steel brazed on the sides to make them align well with the channel.

They're rock-steady when tightened down. Here's the top cone. And the bottom cone. The brackets for the channel were useful in supporting tubes.

The front end of the downtube supported by a bracket.Wow — someone has actually read this post and requested drawings!

Bicycle Frame Jigs

This seems only fair since not everyone can be expected to create an Onshape account to play with the model. But…be warned — these drawings were originally only for my reference while making the jig!

The two files after it are dxf files containing engravings and reference geometry for adjusting seat tube and head tube angles that need to be machined on a CNC mill. Every year in the spring, I teach a one-credit co-curricular in which 6 or 7 engineering students learn to build bicycle frames. We keep it pretty simple — we only work with steel, and students must either fillet braze or capillary braze using lugged construction.

No exotic materials. No TIG welding. It seemed like a well-proven design, and I really like the way the bottom bracket pivot floats thanks to a clever dual-curved-slot design that puts the center point of the slot arcs at the center of the bottom bracket. Thankfully, I did not have to start entirely from scratch in copying the Arctos design. The aspect of this project that I am most excited about is that it gave me an excuse to go deep on my new favorite CAD software, Onshape.

Ok, permit me a momentary diversion to highlight just some of the myriad reasons Onshape is a delight to use. Okay, enough blathering on about Onshape.

You can view it without logging in, and it is copyable and exportable for all Onshape users. The Onshape document includes models for all custom and COTS parts, an assembly, and engineering drawings with dimensions. Aspects of the assembly could probably be improved.

Also, the drawings are still fairly rough no tolerances, for examplebut should give you a starting point for fabrication. Stay tuned for Part 2 of this post with more photos of the finished jig, its constituent parts, and short descriptions of how I manufactured each of the custom parts.

Please let me know what you think. I really appreciate this! May I ask you some questions about the jig? So how can you get the frame out of the jig? Thanks for the inquiry. Once the cones and BB plug are out of the way, loosening the rear dummy axle will let you rotate the frame about the bottom bracket. You can then slide it off the bottom bracket axle perpendicular to the plane of the jig. You will want to tack it on the jig, then do various checks for planarity of the front triangle, symmetry of the rear triangles, etc.

I just do full brazing on a Park stand. In the meantime may I ask you another question?

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Purely aesthetic — you can leave it out if you like. Thank you for the compliment! You are most welcome to download the plans and build a version for yourself. The links to download the files are in the post after the second paragraph of text.

One question — can we work out the mechanical parts — the critical ones like the two files.

Reader Story: Building a Custom Bike Frame at Home

Hi, Martin. Handling performance is pretty sensitive to head tube angle. The seat tube is less sensitive, but that plate has a slot that a steel dowel pin rides in.

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Your email address will not be published. Notify me of follow-up comments by email.There are a variety of aluminum extrusions available, Arctos jigs use Item brand extrusions.

Because many bicycle dimensions are given in metric, and I think it is a better system, I went with Metric extrusions. I went with the 40 series metric extrusions. Their naming system give the distance between channels on all extrusions in that series.

pithy bikes frame jig

For example metric 40 series is 40mm between channels and the 1. The individual extrusion options are named for their dimensions. It has one channel in the center of each face 20mm from each side. The series is 40mm x 80mm. The 80mm face has two channels and the 40mm face has one channel. Each extrusion series is designed to use a specific hardware. The channels take M8 bolts and the end holes are the right diameter to be tapped for M8 threading.

Therefor I used almost exclusively M8 bolts for this project. See the attached. Aluminum Stock: The specific parts that I milled were almost entirely aluminum. It is fairly light, fairly cheap and I had access to lots of scrap. Other: I bought dummy axles from the United Bicycle Institute.

Note: My Jig is designed to work with the specific dimensions of these dummy axles, modify yours if you use different dummy axles.

pithy bikes frame jig

As I mentioned in the introduction, I wanted to keep the main spine long enough for long chain stays. The longer the main spine the longer chain stays you can make. The length of the main spine is very roughly the max chain stay length plus the max effective top tube length you want to make. A size large Surly Big Dummy has chain stays that are mm long and an effective top tube length of mm.

With my simple formula that gives a spine length of mm.


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